The second occasion was with a student friend Simon, we had just completed our Hawkesbury Agriculture College, horticulture certificate and celebrated by walking the Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair track, an amazing adventure.
We felt we knew Tasmania relatively well but this time we would take a more contempary approach ,as we had a granddaughter ,on board ,so travel arrangements can vary considerably , the plan was to visit places we had not seen before.
A short 1 ½ hour flight from Sydney ,we landed in Launceston ,taking time to admire the Blackwood timber airport ceiling and bench facing, which Tasmania is famous for .We hired a Mitzibishi 4 wheel drive Outlander ,and set off in a north easterly direction on the Bass Highway for Stanley.
Noticing a billboard sign for cheese tasting, we pulled into Ashgrove amongst the coloured concrete cows hoping to sample the cheese with some cider. The merchandising arrangements were fractured and you could only buy separate articles in separate sections .So we settled for cheese and ham rolls with tea for early lunch.
The highway system was good allowing us to cover kilometers at pace in safety, we turned off the highway at Penguin, to stretch the legs, admire the church, share an icecream and photo opportunity with the giant foreshore penguin dressed in his knitted jersey.
Penguin talking to a local
We turned off the highway when near the rugged coastline, attempting to identify irrigated flower crops growing in rich volcanic soil.
Reaching Stanley late afternoon we booked into the 168 year old Stanley Hotel in Church street, and after cider in the small bar made our way to Hursey’s Seafood for a feed of calamari ,prawns, abalone with fish and chips, taken with a glass of Tasmanian white wine, we enjoyed the meal so much we went back for seconds of more chips.
8.15am start for Woolnorth,the original 350,000 acre grant to the Van Diemans Land company in 1832,but now reduced to 35,000 acres managed by Fonterra of New Zealand ,for dairy farming. We filled with petrol at Marrawah, a famous west coast surfing town and headed south through wind swept heath country to Arthur River then Nelson Bay where we took a closer look at the beach hopeing for surf ,but found the original Ozzi hermit camped with all his amenities beside the beach and living off the seafood and oysters.
We found a picnic spot beside a rock encrusted beach where we could paddle our feet in the Southern Ocean ,but had not realized how cold the water would be. Our purpose was to take the Tarkine drive ,so we turned east to follow the drive ,to Sumac lookout ,where the view over this wilderness forest and meandering river prompted a photo.
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| Tarkine forest |
Tarkine forest
Continuing on till we came to a reserve with short walk passed Lake Chisholm ,formed when the geology sank thousands of years ago and vegetation formed a plug to retain the water in the lake. This was a majestic walk amongst 1000 year old trees with only filtered light reaching the forest floor.
The return journey was through more dairy country ,with large 300 herd dairy cows marching resolutely to the dairy bails to deliver the days rich milk production These enterprises with large silage storage under black plastic and tyre dumps ultimately delivered to the Edith Creek production factory.
By the time we reached Smithton we were parched ,so it was milkshakes all round.
The climax to the days travel was the evening picnic at Stanly beach park ,among the hussling seagulls. There was a barbecue ,tables and bench seats shaded by Norfolk pine trees and handsome stone wall with timbertop. We ate a splendid chicken salad ,boiled eggs with ginger beer juice and wine ,prepared by Lin.
The sign at the beach front had stated that this was penguin habitat, and on a normal night you could observe the penguins coming ashore after dark, to their rookery. Although we waited till 10pm the penguins did not appear, possably frightened by tourists torch lights flickering in the dark.
Tuesdays breakfast of tea and cheese and carrot roll was in preparation for the long 500 kilometer plus drive to Hobart ,but first some photos of the Stanley hotel and a meander down Church street to admire some of the quaint old English style single storey shops and houses. By 8.15 am we were packed and on our way.
At Chrismas Hills we were attracted to the thought of raspberry cake, so stopped for refreshments tea/coffee and cake on the outdoor timber deck while Naomi explored the outdoor play area. Ross with its historic old bridge built in 1836,its avenue of trees and old sandstone houses was an attractive setting for our picnic lunch in the main street. We observed sensitive restoration work was taking place before our very eyes with thoughtful landscaped tree planting. You could buy a old heritage listed sandstone building in Church street for $500,000.
Heading down the Midlands Highway through Oatlands we decided to take an alternative route at Jericho, we turned off towards Colebrook ,this was hilly sheep country ,and the twisty road required the driver to be alert to the turns and tight corners it presented, with views of the Coal River valley, we passed through Campania, more shearing sheds ,but suddenly as north country folk would say “ we cumupon a wine tasting opportunity.
Lin and I were keen to explore this attractive old Georgian house, old stone barn and cellar ,so parking in the treelined car park, leaving Josh and Naomi outside, we decended into a cavernous cellar in anticipation of sampling their offering, and were greeted with “How has your day been” and a Sav.. blanc.
I know very little of wine production, but have sampled a few drops ,generally with a meal, of very appertising wine ,this certainly tasted good and I was happy to talk to the proprietors about their wine in the hope I could expand my knowledge. Suddenly my tasting partner had disappeared ,possibly frightened by the price of $24.00 for a bottle. What could I do, besides a hasty retreat to the carpark. Unfortunately I had not taken my camera into the wine cellar so came away without photos of this priceless property.
On top of Mount Wellington overlooking Hobart
Our next hurdle was overcoming the peakhour traffic of Hobart to find our Airbanb accommodation at Battery Point. Our enterprising navigator armed with mobile Google map, steered us to the Colville street unit complex into the arms of our host ,who presented us with the keys to our two bedroom unit with balcony, this was our home for the next three days.
While Josh and Lin went grocery shopping at nearby Sandy Bay road retail area, Naomi and I wrote Xmas cards with cute drawings.
After noodle soup,we were keen to explore the area ,being a mere 200 meters from the Derwent River. What would we find at the jetty and small beach ? Lin hit the jackpot with a dozen oysters and 24 muscles which we ate after cooking in boiling water.
Wednesday it was morning tea and toast on the balcony to greet the day ,followed by muesli. The plan was a visit to Mt Wellington ,involving a 25 kilometer drive up a winding narrow road ,with fauna creeping from one side of the road to the other .Only for patient drivers were echidna able to traverse their path.
Finally on top of the mountain we encountered telegraph and weather collecting towers, a stone and glass observation hut and a crowd of tourists. A couple from Holland requested a photo of my now 12 month beard which resulted in some Dutch discussion.
We were up in the clouds ,traversing the area on wooden gantry decking ,but had to wait for the clouds to clear before we could photograph the Derwent River and its bridges. After lunch we took a siesta in preparation for the afternoon walk along the river track to Salamanca Place.
This is a historic part of Hobart beside the Constitutional Dock, where old sandstone warehouses have been restored into a upmarket retail and restaurant area .featuring outdoor tables and chairs in the wide street.
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| MONA artgallery |
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| Mayfield Aboriginal midden |
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| St Mary's hotel |
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| Derby |
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| Cateract dry stone wall Launceston |
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| Launceston cateract park |
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